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Isle of Man
April 2019 and our very first visit to the Isle of Man
Our trip, as part of the Foresters Friendly Society group that we joined in 2018, started with our expedition across to Derby where we would meet up, the next day with our travel companions. Today, Wednesday 17th, we set off for Derby, where we will stay overnight in readiness for catching our coach at 08:30 the following morning.
We have decided, in light of Pam needing to travel with her electric scooter, that rather than try to achieve the early arrival on the day, it would be better to take the start in stages. Stage one, being our journey, courtesy of Grenville, our fabulous next-door neighbour, in his car to Friar Lane in the City. Here we caught the local service bus, operated by Trent Barton to Derby. I struggled somewhat to get our case and then Pam’s scooter into Grenville’s car, but managed reasonably well, without too much effect on my troublesome hernia. Extracting both at Friar Lane was a little discomforting but the ache in my groin did eventually pass before alighting the bus at Derby. Pam remained on her scooter for the journey, and I sat perched on one of the small fold down seats at the side of her, hanging on to the suitcase and bag, that wanted to wander off down the aisle during the dramatic drive through the suburbs of Nottingham and Derby. I should have put the case on the luggage rack but couldn’t risk the lifting that would have been involved. Our two needs for clothing and other essentials had been crammed in to one of our larger cases, which was bulging.
We finally arrived at Derby bus station, the convenient location of our hotel and more importantly the 08:30 starting point for our coach trip, the next day.
A pleasant stay in the Riverside Premier Inn enhanced by the 4th floor window view we had looking out over the river gardens, the river Derwent and the surrounding sprawl of Derby suburbs; St Marys, Little Chester and Chaddesdon. We eat in the hotel to save travelling around an area we once new well, but now one we still recognise; as it has change little, but most definitely don’t know the places to eat. The meal was good, in value and quality and certainly more than sufficed. We plan to have breakfast in the hotel the following morning.
After a reasonably good night’s sleep, we arose, washed and showered and made our way down for breakfast. Pam had the usual English whilst I settled for the continental. Suitably replenished once more and not knowing when or where our next meal would be, we set off back to our room to collect all of our belongings, which we had packed prior to going for breakfast and made our very, short journey to the coach pick up point. As we entered the bus station concourse we were greeted by a couple of familiar faces, Pam’s old Derby school friends and fellow Foresters, 4 of which would be our fellow passengers on the trip.
All luggage and the electric scooter stowed we set off on our journey to Heysham our port of departure to the hopefully sunny, Isle of Man. Our coach is one provided by Skills, but our driver Brian, is freelance; once employed by Skills for 26 years, now retired, and more so a fellow Forester, who occasionally comes out of retirement to provide driving for the group. A very amiable man as the next 6 days would prove.
An easy run up to Heysham, arriving with time to spare and having one comfort stop along the way, to board our Isle of Man Steam Packet ship, that would take us across the Irish Sea to our hotel location, within the capitol Douglas.
A relatively smooth crossing, although with the occasional feeling of sideways movement. I don’t think I would like to be on board in any form of swell as the ship, although it must have stabilisers fitted, didn’t seem to have sufficient or of an adequate design to cope with a heavy Irish Sea. The crossing, for what seems a relatively short distance took nearly 4 hours, in which time much coffee and tea was consumed, along with endless staring at fellow passengers and the general surroundings of the miniscule lounge and galley area of the ship. I did venture out on deck once, well into our journey across, in the hope of a glimpse of the island and a camera opportunity, but surprisingly disappointed I didn’t spend long taking in the non-existent view of a reasonable calm sea and very little else as the sky was cloudy, with only the slightest hint of the sun.
Caption: View looking stern of our ferry Ben-My-Chree and the Derby School Friends, from left to right Gil,Val, Lyn and Cath. Thats Val's husband Keith in the front.
We finally approached our port of arrival at the current capitol of the island, Douglas; Castletown was the original. Douglas sits on a wide bay looking east out onto the Irish Sea. A dramatic wide bay backed by hills and lined with white multi-storey properties, predominantly apartments and hotels, for as far as the eyes can see. As we arrived the sun did try to break through the clouds thus giving a brighter look to the properties. Our hotel, the Rutland, for the duration of our stay, was located roughly three quarters of the way around the bay from our harbour entry. Negotiation to the hotel was far from simple. The wide promenade that borders the sea from the properties was in many places up rooted and barriered off down the middle, thus in places leaving nothing more than a narrow access road in each direction. More on this problem later. The initial problem that the barriers caused was the fact that our coach could not park directly at the hotel but had to do so out side the casino located some four minutes’ walk away. The wide pavement frontage of the casino had been marked out with two large coach bays and a number of taxis stop, simply to solve the problem, both for hotels located before and after the casino. It meant that we were unable to take our luggage to the hotel, which worked out for the better as I will remark on later. Pam’s scooter was unloaded as was a number of walking frames to help the less able over the four-minute walk. The walk was brief but not without contention, with the pavements on the journey in very poor condition and lacking in many cases any consideration for the disabled. Although a UK dependence, the island government body, the Tynwald, do not appear to have adopted any laws relating to disabled access as our eventual arrival at the hotel proved. On our safe arrival, despite the conditions of the pavement and kerb edges we were confronted with numerous steps to the hotel. On enquires to the staff standing around outside as to the whereabouts of the disabled access we were told that there wasn’t one. This meant that on every occasion that Pam and I ventured out to explore the island, a member of staff, on several occasions the female receptionists, had to lift and carry disable people’s equipment. Not the best of arrivals for our stay, but one which the staff had no alternative but to respond to in the only way they had at their disposal. Thankfully being housed on the second floor the hotel did have a lift, only one and only capable of carrying three people at best. It did mean that Pam and her scooter could be taken to our room where we could charge it each night in readiness for the day ahead.
Captions: A view from the promenade at Douglas looking north. Our hotel, The Rutland, for the duration of our stay on the island and our sea-view room.
Our room where we eventually dropped into after a tiring days travel was excellent. A roomy seafront location, with three large windows from which we could see the full sweep of the bay. Sadly, it also highlighted the problem that we and our fellow travellers would encounter throughout the stay, which was the basic ability to cross the road. It was immediately impossible, from the hotel, to cross the road to reach the promenade and the seafront. We could see it as we stood at the steps of the hotel but had to view it as if early WW1 and WW2 internees, through two banks of metal fencing. The reason, the Manx government are relaying the horse drawn tram tracks, which once the work is completed will rerun the entire length of the bay from the harbour at one end to the Electric Tram station at the other. Work apparently which appears to also include the relaying of essential utilities, has been on-going for months and according to the disgruntled locals, hoteliers and trades people, with many, many months still to face. October is a projected date. I think they said 2019! We learnt that the island is not noted for its tourist, despite having some beautiful countryside and coastal locations, not to mention the World-famous TT and the Manx. Tourism forming less than 10% of the Islands GDP.
Our first day on the island was a rest day, a day that we could explore, if we wished, or just chill out at the hotel. Pam and I decided that we would spend some part of the day exploring Douglas. We set off heading towards the harbour in the direction we had been assured of the shopping centre. The information was correct and having walked on our side of the Berlin Wall, we were able, eventually, to be able to cross on to the promenade, but decided not to and to continue along the hotel side of the front. We passed the Gaiety Theatre and the adjacent Sefton hotel, which sported a seated bronze cast of Sir Norman Wisdom, who made the island his home for over 30 years, posed sitting cross-legged on a bench looking out to the sea. Not the best of likenesses, but are statues ever? The shopping area of the town consisted of a pedestrian free road with a mix of shops, some well-known high street brands, on either side with an M&S store located mid-way. We stopped for a coffee, purchased lunch at M&S and then made our way back to the hotel, to sit in our room and enjoy lunch. Later that afternoon I ventured along the front in the opposite direction making my way to the Electric Train depot, where I took a number of pictures of the trams.
Captions: The statue of Sir Norman Wisdom, outside the Sefton hotel. One of the Electric trams which travel between Douglas, through Laxey on onwards north to Ramsey.
The next day was scheduled for a coach trip around the island. A local guide had been arranged to be with us for the day. This was undoubtedly the best way to see, at least the major aspects of the island and our guide, through her vast knowledge of the island made the day extremely interesting. Her first question as we set off was “is anyone interested in seeing the TT course”, to which I and several other males on-board gave her a resounding answer. So, first landmark, having just set off, was the start /finish area of the course which was on the outskirts of Douglas. So great to see, in person, the area I have watched so many times in the past on TV or video, an aspect of our visit I shall treasure. On our route around the island we encountered a number of the TT course landmarks, Agostini leap, Goveners Bridge, Ballaugh Bridge to name a few. Sadly, we rode the course in the opposite direction to the racers. This is where being in your own car would have been beneficial.
The day out wasn’t just to experience the locations of the course it was to give us a flavour of the island which it most definitely achieved. We made first for Laxey and the chance to visit the “Lady Isobella”, the islands famous water wheel, the largest working water wheel in the World, before setting off for Ramsey where we again stopped and had chance to wander around the harbour, drinks and a toilet break
Captions: Pictures one and two, show the "Lady Isobella", the Laxey wheel. Had I been fit I would have loved to have gone inside and climbed the wheel for some marvellous shots. Next pictures taken at Ramsey, the harbour and the church outside of which we parked.
From here we travelled from the East of the island across to the west, seeing first-hand the diversity of scenery that the island has to offer. At Peel we had a longer break, enabling time not just to explore but for lunch, which Pam & I partook of, on the promenade, enjoying the delights of a ham salad sandwich, washed down with cappuccino. From Peel we continued our journey down the west coast, where the scenery became more rugged with recollections at times of the Peak district, with rolling hills and deep river worn valleys. The only realisation that it wasn’t the views of Derbyshire being the occasional glimpses of the rugged coastline. Our final destination towards the south of the island was to be “The Sound” overlooking the Calf of Man. However, thanks to poor parking, by English visitors, on the very narrow approach road, that so much time was spent trying to get the cars moved so that the coach could proceed, that we didn’t have time to stop. This would have been an excellent photo opportunity, as witness by the number of individuals thronging around the area taking in the magnificent views. Our return to Douglas took us on the outskirts of Port Erin, Port St Mary and Castletown, all three of which the guide pointed out that we could visit courtesy of the Islands steam railway.
Captions: Peel, views of the castle and of activity in the harbour.
After such a long day on the tour of the island the organisers deemed our next day as a rest day, giving us the opportunity to do just that or continue our exploration if we so wished. Despite my growing problem, with my hernia, we decided not to miss any opportunity to get out and about and opted to catch the Steam train and to journey to its terminus at Port Erin. We made our way, once we cleared the barriers, to walk on the promenade heading in the direction of the harbour and marina where we would catch the train.
The train took us to Port Erin, in places skirting the coast line of the eastern part of the island. Still not feeling 100% we still managed, after having lunch at the station café to stroll or scoot to the headline of the port to take in the views before returning to the train for our return journey. Once more the train betrayed the Island and activities lack of disabled facilities, with no onboard means of taking wheel chair bound customers. With Pam dismounted the scooter had to be physically man handle, by an aging volunteer into the guard’s van. A rise from platform height of some 18inches.
Captions: Our steam train awaiting departure. A well preserved engine. Finally Port Erin with its sheltered sandy bay.
Our last full day on the island was to be spent at Castletown. We set off in the coach at around 10:30 and arrived at the previous capitol of the island just prior to lunch, Brian, our driver, taking a steady drive down to the south of the island. He dropped us off in the middle of the town directly adjacent the impressive medieval castle, which dominated the area. Castletown as I mentioned earlier was the capitol of the island until 1869, when it transferred to the larger Douglas. The castle, known as Castle Rushen, is believed to have been built for a Viking king.
On alighting the bus, you quickly realised that in the sun it was pleasant but, in the shade, a little nippy with a cool breeze coming off the Irish sea. We made our way to the harbour and marina, taking pictures of the surrounding area as we strolled past. Conveniently located at the harbour entrance was a much welcome site, a Costa coffee establishment, housed in one of the towns old buildings. This was to be our haven, first for a warming coffee and then having ventured out and a walk around the harbour our salvation once more for a very leisurely lunch.
On making our way back to our coach pick up point, we ventured into the small shopping area and despite earlier attempts at other places we had stopped at on our previous days out, we were able to find a gift shop. Here, very limited to options, we purchased a number of appropriate fridge magnets to bring back as souvenirs. Another interesting visit, if a little on the cold side and once more with limited accessibility for the disabled, once you ventured away from the main square.
Caption: A panoramic view taken from the harbour entrance. Castle Rushen an impressive entrance to the town from the sea. The stark white building at the foot of the castle, is the refuge from the cold wind, otherwise known as Costa.
An early start for our final day of the trip as we are on our way home today, catching the 08:45 ferry back to the main land. An event free journey back, making use of the easy access to the M6 from the port, our journey down this normally busy road passed off quickly. One toilet and refreshment break before reaching Derby bus station where all said their farewells. Pam & I re-joined the bus as Brian happy to drop us off at Skills depot where Grenville can more easily pick us up.
The ISLAND
In two minds whether to return, which is unusual for us, as we inevitably feel sufficiently charged, on the majority of our visits, to want to return and explore more. Seldom do we pick a location or area where we are unsure. Our desire is normally so strong that there is little doubts in our minds, other that is than cost.
The island didn’t spark that desire and strangely neither of us can put a finger on any one reason. It was picturesque, and appeared laid back, but probably lacked, other than watching the TT, points of interest, that we noted, or not in this case, and would want to return.
The HOTEL
Was clean, with reasonable meals and the offer of a free drink each night for us both most welcome. The lack of disabled facilities, prior to Pam’s last operation wouldn’t have been of concern, but obviously now is. Having a sea view room was excellent apart from the fact that when the tide was out, the beach that was left wasn’t the most attractive – with the tide leaving behind seaweed and rocks, with very little sand. Location wise it was probably handily placed not quite midway the curve of the bay, but walkable to either end. What happens when the works are completed and you can simply cross the road, catch a bus then in either direction, which you couldn’t easily at the time or stop the horse drawn tram, or simply walk, we may never find out. Having an electric scooter would probably limit access to the horse drawn tram anyway. Hopefully the bus operates for disabled passengers.
The DRIVER
Couldn’t fault Brian. Most obliging and a pleasant bloke. His 26years driving experience certainly shone through on the entire time that we were on board the coach. Right up to the time that he dropped us off at Skills Bulwell depot.
The COMPANY
Despite knowing 4 on board, Gil, Val, Cath and Lynn (Pam’s Derby schoolmates), 5 if you consider Val’s hubby Keith, we didn’t have the opportunity or the need to mix, other than at meal times. Apart from the normal courtesies few real conversations took place and those that did were amazingly one sided, with us as usual providing the ears. In any attempt for role reversal blank and un-interested faces ensued.
It didn’t spoil the time away as Pam & I are more than happy with our own company – comfortable together whether talking, reading or simply taking in the surroundings.